#Primula auricula old mustard full#

#Primula auricula old mustard full#

I will pollinate the thrums, as well (cut off the corolla and anthers, shake pollen into the tube), but I’ve never got more than a few seeds out of a marginata thrum, while pins have produced full pods.Add spring and summer cheer to your property with these easy-to-please perennials More pins, more seeds perhaps, next year. Could it be that soil chemistry, temperature, light levels, or some other variable (the plants are in different gardens) may affect the colour of the petals? The two little purples are ‘The Best’ and Wrightmans’ ‘Plum Brandy.’ They are both selections of the species, as far as I know. One has a hint of colour (not apparent in the photo, or maybe it is?), while the other does not. The two whites, Primula marginata alba, were purchased in different years from the same nursery and may be - most likely are - pieces of the same plant. The marginatas that did produce well were in shadier spots, sheltered from the heat. You might think the pair above, thrum and pin, produced seed. Nor do marginatas produce seed as readily (in my garden, at least).

There would be more, but marginata seeds don’t germinate at the same high rate as auricula seeds. I have raised marginata hybrids from seed these are my first true marginata seedlings. Not bad? Seed came from the Alpine Garden Club of British Columbia. The old leaf and stems can be cut off and the little plant(s) potted up. This leaf with two flower stems rooted while standing in a small clay vase. Cut or break off each leaf with a bit of root, or pot up the entire mass and have a large plant sooner.Ī leaf stood in water may root and produce new plantlets. New plantlets can stay in the propagation container until they are large enough to handle easily, but they can also be removed when very small. A little warmth may hasten new growth, but room temperature is usually fine. The containers are then loosely closed or covered. The cuttings could be inserted straight into moistened potting mix. The sphagnum helps maintain a humid environment. The cuttings are inserted into moistened sphagnum, above the potting mix. One advantage of a clear container is that roots are visible soon after they begin to grow, usually in around 6-8 weeks. The propagation containers have a little potting mix for the roots to grow into. New growth arises from the damaged tissue (the cut) in contact with moisture.Īdditional small incisions may provide more new growth points, but would not usually be necessary. Leaves can be cut lengthwise through the middle rib or crosswise. A small piece of green tissue, even a square centimeter, may be capable of producing a new plant. Healthy leaves are best, of course, but are not always available. Good leaves for propagation are mature size, or close to it that is, they have started producing flower buds, or soon will. (Or do I imagine this?)īelow, examples of yellow auriculas that are not the species, including show self ‘April Moon’ and border ‘Kate Haywood,’ photographed in 2017. Also, they have a stronger, truer auricula fragrance.

And when hand-pollinated with another yellow that resembles the species, their seeds produce more yellow-flowered, species-like plants. They are slower to spread and increase, lacking the sort of vigour that causes hybrids to produce lots of offsets. Or maybe I should say they don’t act like hybrids. Others simply look and act like species plants. Some of my yellows are raised from wild-collected seeds.

My first auricula seeds came from a botanic garden, where cross-pollination with related species can produce hybrid seeds. But a name on a seed packet is not a guarantee of purity. All are from seed labelled Primula auricula. How do I know my yellow-flowered auriculas are species and not hybrids? I don’t. Not every yellow-flowered auricula is an example of the species.